Monday, March 10, 2014

Day 7: Salvador

When we checked into the Pousada, a guest told us they had the best breakfast in the country and he did not lie.  We gorged on a delicious spread of fruits and sweet and savory pastries on a beautiful patio overlooking the water. 

We set off to find some art so checked out some more galleries in the Pelourinho neighborhood. We wandered past the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosario dos Pretos where we got suckered into making three wishes with our "wish ribbons" and tying one ribbon onto the church fence.  

We popped into a few more stores and galleries before attempting to go see the Afro-Brazilian Museum which we wanted to see not only because it was a main attraction but it featured murals from a famous Brazilian artist Carybe whose paintings we had liked in a previous gallery sighting. But for some unknown reason it was closed! Grr. 

We then headed into on of the churches off of the Terreiro do Jesus Square - Igreja de Sao Francisco. It was extremely ornate with gold everywhere you could see. Those colonists really know how to decorate! 

We searched for a Brazilian dance class but didn't find one that seemed to be at our level so we headed over to the Mercado Modelo, which is an arts/crafts/crapola market.  To get there we had to take the "Elevador Lacerda, an art deco elevator that connected the Cidade Alta to the Comercio district. The Mercado didn't do too much for us (as we were warned by the Americans we met the night before) so we headed back up the elevador to the Cidade Alta to have lunch. We went to a nice Bahian restaurant called Axego with delicious food and a fan! (It was a warm day). 

We wandered back through a couple galleries and stopped at one we liked previously that had paintings of Afro-Brazilian dancers with dresses made of lace. Swapna effectively negotiated in Spani-Portuguese and got us a good deal! We headed back to the hotel to drop off our purchases before heading back out to the Museum of Modern Art. 

Once again we were thwarted because the Museum was mostly closed for renovation.  Aaargh. We sat for a moment to take in the sunset and contemplate our next plan and decided to check out the Forte de San Antonio near our hotel as we heard they had capoeira performances.  We wandered in and there was a large group playing the drums - apparently preparing for a Carnival performance.  It was fun to watch them practice.  

After that we decided it was time for a drink and wandered over to a nearby bar to have a beer.  Our plan was to go back to the Forte because we heard capoeira was starting at some point but we ran into our friends Rosa and Dennis from Boipeba so we invited them to join us for a beer and snack. 

Once it was time for dinner (we made an earlier reservation) we walked over the restaurant Maria Mata Mouro, a high-class Bahian restaurant.  We initially sat in the garden which was pretty but it started pouring rain so we moved under cover. The food was tasty and we even enjoyed a bottle of Brazilian wine! As we walked back we passed a huge pre-Carnival party but decided to conserve our energy for Rio and headed back to the hotel. 

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